Blog
Training, minus the folklore.
Practical writing on getting better at climbing — what works, what's a myth, and what to do at the gym on Tuesday.
Climbing endurance training: three kinds, and a six-week plan
Climbing endurance training is easy mileage, steady interval laps and a little power endurance. What each one builds, how much you need, and a six-week plan.
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Weight training for climbing: do you actually need to lift?
In your first year or two, climbing is the strength training that matters. Weights earn a place later, plus a short routine to balance all the pulling.
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Climbing technique for beginners: five basics that beat strength
Climbing technique for beginners comes down to precise feet, weight over your feet, straight arms, turned hips and reading the climb. How to practise each one.
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Beginner climbing training plan: your first structured week
A beginner climbing training plan is two or three sessions a week, each with one job, repeated for four weeks. Here's the template and how to progress it.
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How often should you climb? Sessions per week for new climbers
Most new climbers do best on two or three sessions a week with a rest day between them, building towards three or four once their fingers have had a year.
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Repeaters vs max hangs: which hangboard protocol fits your goal
Max hangs build finger strength; repeaters build the endurance to keep using it. Which suits your climbing, what the research shows, and how to run both.
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Climbing finger pain: the red flags that mean stop
Most finger aches after climbing fade within a day. A pop, sharp pain, swelling or pain that lingers or returns means stop climbing and see a professional.
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Max hangs for climbing: what they are and when they're worth doing
Max hangs are short, near-maximal hangboard hangs with long rests, built to raise finger strength. What they are, who should do them, and how to start.
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When should climbers start hangboarding? A readiness checklist
Most climbers should start hangboarding after a year or more of regular climbing, once progress slows. How to tell you're ready, and how to start safely.
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The retest: how to know your climbing training is actually working
Your training is working if fixed benchmarks move under the same conditions, not if you feel stronger. Here's how to run a climbing retest you can trust.
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How long does it take to climb V5? Honest timelines
How long it takes to climb V5 depends on how often you climb, how varied it is and how you train, not just years. Here's what decides it and how to track it.
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Boulder grade vs route grade: why your routes lag behind
Your route grade trails your boulder grade because routes test pacing, resting and moving while pumped, not just hard moves. Here's how to close the gap.
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Stuck at V4? The three gaps that cap intermediate climbers
Stuck at V4 usually means a gap in steep-wall footwork, fingers on smaller holds, or how you try hard. Here's how to find yours and close it.
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No hangboard? A finger-strength plan you can do at the gym
Build climbing finger strength with nothing but a bouldering wall: a structured plan of crimp climbing, min-edge problems and wall hangs.
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Climbing training for beginners: what matters in your first year
Skip the hangboard debates. What genuinely makes new climbers better in year one — and the training myths you can safely ignore.
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How to break a bouldering plateau (a practical 4-week approach)
Why bouldering plateaus happen, and a concrete 4-week template for climbing through one — no hangboard required.
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