· 8 min read

Climbing technique for beginners: five basics that beat strength

Climbing technique for beginners comes down to precise feet, weight over your feet, straight arms, turned hips and reading the climb. How to practise each one.

Climbing technique for beginners comes down to five basics: put your feet precisely, keep your weight over them, hang on straight arms, turn your hips to the wall, and read the climb before you start. In your first year or two, getting these right will move your grade further than any amount of extra pulling, because almost every new climber is losing energy on the same few habits.

None of this needs kit or a training plan. It needs easy climbs, a bit of attention, and one thing to focus on at a time.

Why technique outranks strength early on

When you start climbing, strength feels like the limit. You get pumped, your arms give out, you fall off the steep wall. But in most cases the arms are tired because they’re doing work the legs should have done. Fix the movement and the same strength goes further.

Researchers who study climbing skill measure this by tracking the hips. A 2017 review of climbing movement research by Orth, Kerr, Davids and Seifert concluded that skill level is associated with a spatially efficient route progression and lower levels of immobility. In plain terms: better climbers take a tidier line up the wall and spend less time stuck, hanging there working out what to do. Both of those are technique, not strength.

Coaches put it the same way. Lattice Training’s beginner’s guide says skill should be your highest priority as a new climber, and points out that you can learn a great deal of it on very easy terrain, where you can climb far more. That’s the practical key to everything below: practise technique on climbs well below your limit, where you have the spare attention to notice what your body is doing.

There’s a safety reason too. Tendons adapt more slowly than muscle, so in your first year your fingers can’t yet take everything your arms can pull. Every move your legs take over is load your fingers don’t have to carry. What matters in your first year goes into why that gap matters.

The five basics

1. Precise feet

Most beginners place a foot roughly on a hold, then shuffle it until it feels secure. Each shuffle costs grip and balance, and a foot that’s moving is a foot that can slip.

What good looks like:

  • Look at the foothold until your foot is on it. Not just before. Watch the rubber land.
  • Use the tip of your shoe. Stand on the inside edge, by the big toe, on most holds. The toe lets you pivot and turn without re-placing the foot.
  • Once it’s placed, it stays still. Move your body around the foot, not the foot around the hold.
  • On smooth wall or slab, trust the rubber. With no edge to stand on, press the sole flat against the wall with your heel low, so more rubber touches the surface, and keep your weight over it.

If you hear your feet slapping or scraping, that’s the signal. Your first structured climbing week has a silent-feet drill built into the technique session for exactly this reason.

2. Weight over your feet

Your legs are far stronger than your fingers. The more of your weight sits on your feet, the less your hands have to hold. On vertical and slabby walls, that means standing up tall over your feet rather than hugging the wall with your chest pressed into it.

A quick check: if you could let go with one hand right now without falling, your weight is on your feet. If you’d peel straight off, it’s on your arms.

Move your hips first, then reach. Most beginners reach for the next hold and let their feet follow. Try the opposite: step up, stand up on the new foot, and the next hold often comes to you.

3. Straight arms

A bent arm holds you up with muscle. A straight arm hangs from your skeleton. Between moves, and whenever you’re resting, let your arms go straight and sit down into your legs.

This is most obvious on overhangs. Watch a strong climber on a steep wall: arms long, knees bent, hips low, then a push from the legs to the next hold. Beginners do the reverse, locking off on bent arms and pulling to every hold, which is why steep walls pump them out in a minute.

Bend your arms only for the moment of the move, then straighten them again as soon as you’re on the new hold.

4. Turned hips

Facing the wall square-on, like climbing a ladder, is the natural way to start and the least efficient way to reach. Turning a hip into the wall gets your body closer to it and adds reach on that side.

The basic version is the backstep: put the outside edge of your foot on a hold, turn that hip to the wall, and reach with the same-side hand. On steeper ground the same idea becomes the drop knee, where you turn the knee inwards and down to pull your hip in. You don’t need a perfect drop knee in month three, but get used to climbing side-on as well as front-on.

A related tool is the flag: when you reach with one hand and your body swings away from the wall like a door, stick the opposite leg out to the side against the wall to counterbalance. If you keep “barn-dooring” off a problem, you probably need a flag or a different foot.

5. Read the climb first

Plenty of beginner falls aren’t strength or technique failures. They’re planning failures: the climber started up the problem, found themselves on the wrong hand at the crux, and ran out of options.

Lattice’s guide suggests acting the sequence out on the ground before you try for the flash, and putting yourself in the setter’s shoes: why is that foothold there? Before every problem you try for the first time:

  • Trace the hand sequence from start to top, and note which hand ends on each hold.
  • Find the footholds for every move, not just the handholds.
  • Spot the hard move and decide how you’ll do it before you leave the ground.

It feels slow at first. It quickly becomes the fastest part of the session.

A four-week technique rotation

Pick one basic per week and practise it for 20 minutes near the start of a session, straight after your warm-up, on problems two or more grades below your max. Easy climbs are the point: you need your attention on the movement, not on hanging on.

WeekFocusDrill on easy problemsYou’ve got it when…
1Precise feetWatch every foot land; no re-placing once setYour feet are silent and stay put
2Weight over feetBefore each reach, check you could let go with that handYou can pause on any hold without straining
3Straight armsOn easy overhangs, straighten both arms between every moveSteep easy problems stop pumping you out
4Turned hipsClimb each problem once front-on, once side-on with backstepsLong reaches feel shorter side-on

Read the climb before every problem throughout, rather than giving it a week of its own. After four weeks, start again with whichever basic felt worst. Most climbers find one of the five keeps showing up as the problem.

The rest of each session stays as normal. If you’re climbing two or three times a week, put the rotation in one of them; how often you should climb covers how to space them.

How to check your own technique

You can’t see yourself climb, so get some outside eyes on it.

Film one problem a session. A phone propped on a bag is enough. Watch for feet that shuffle or slip, arms bent while you’re resting, and long stops where you’re working out what to do. Those three tell you most of what a coach would.

Climb it twice. Do an easy problem, then immediately do it again aiming to be smoother and quieter. The difference between the two attempts is your technique learning in real time.

Watch better climbers on problems you can do. Not the hardest climb in the gym: one you’ve done. Compare where they put their feet and hips with where you put yours.

Common beginner mistakes

Practising technique only on hard climbs. At your limit, survival wins and old habits return. Learn new movement on easy ground, then let it show up on hard climbs later.

Only climbing your favourite wall. Slab teaches feet and balance; overhangs teach straight arms and hips. Avoiding a style leaves a gap that turns into a ceiling later. Stuck at V4 shows where those gaps tend to bite.

Treating every fall as a strength problem. Before you decide you’re too weak, ask whether your feet were on, your arms were straight, and you knew the sequence. Usually one of those wasn’t.

Pulling harder when it feels hard. Gripping harder rarely saves a move. Look down, find a better foot, and move your hips first.

Where this leaves you

Technique is never finished. Strong climbers still work on their feet. But in your first couple of years it’s the area where a few weeks of attention pays off fastest, with no extra load on your fingers.

If you’d like the rotation built into your week alongside the rest of your climbing, Mantle plans your sessions from what you log, so the technique work has a place in the week rather than relying on memory.

Written by Mantle.

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