Finger strength
Building finger strength for climbing safely — with or without a hangboard — and when to start.
Repeaters vs max hangs: which hangboard protocol fits your goal
Max hangs build finger strength; repeaters build the endurance to keep using it. Which suits your climbing, what the research shows, and how to run both.
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Climbing finger pain: the red flags that mean stop
Most finger aches after climbing fade within a day. A pop, sharp pain, swelling or pain that lingers or returns means stop climbing and see a professional.
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Max hangs for climbing: what they are and when they're worth doing
Max hangs are short, near-maximal hangboard hangs with long rests, built to raise finger strength. What they are, who should do them, and how to start.
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When should climbers start hangboarding? A readiness checklist
Most climbers should start hangboarding after a year or more of regular climbing, once progress slows. How to tell you're ready, and how to start safely.
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Stuck at V4? The three gaps that cap intermediate climbers
Stuck at V4 usually means a gap in steep-wall footwork, fingers on smaller holds, or how you try hard. Here's how to find yours and close it.
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No hangboard? A finger-strength plan you can do at the gym
Build climbing finger strength with nothing but a bouldering wall: a structured plan of crimp climbing, min-edge problems and wall hangs.
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